Multi-purpose cosmetic compositions

ABSTRACT

Disclosed are compositions and methods for their use comprising effective amount of  Silybum marianum  extract and  Momordica grosvenori  fruit extract.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a Divisional of U.S. application Ser. No.13/341,616, filed Dec. 30, 2011, which claims the benefit of U.S.Provisional Application 61/428,740, filed Dec. 30, 2010. The contents ofthe referenced application are incorporated into the present applicationby reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to multi-purpose topical skincompositions that can be used on dry skin, oily skin, or combinationskin.

B. Description of Related Art

There are thousands of skin formulation available to consumers. Further,there are a myriad of different skin types among the population. Suchskin types range from normal skin, dry skin, oily skin, and combinationskin (e.g., normal/dry, normal/oily, dry/oily). The leads to a confusingand exhaustive search for different products for different applications.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventor found a solution to the aforementioned problems. Thissolution is premised on the use of particular combination of ingredientsthat synergistically work on all skin-types ranging from normal skin,dry skin, oily skin and combination skin (e.g., normal/dry, normal/oily,dry/oily). In this regard, two separate combinations of naturalingredients were identified and confirmed to be effective across allskin types. Further, the inventor identified sub-combinations of naturalingredients that can be specifically tailored for a given skin-type.

In one instance, for example, the combination of Silybum marianumextract and Momordica grosvenori fruit extract (primary combination) wasfound to be effective on all skin-types of normal, dry, and oily skin.The addition of Linum usitatissimum seed extract and hydrolyzed algin tothe primary combination was found to work well on dry skin. The additionof Psidium guajava fruit extract and Kunzea ericoides leaf extract tothe primary combination was found to work well on oily skin. Theaddition of Plumeria alba flower extract and Nymphea gigantea flowerextract to the primary combination was found to work well on normalskin.

In another instance, for example, the combination of Silybum marianumextract and Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae extract (primary combination)was found to be effective on all skin-types of normal, dry, and oilyskin. The addition of Linum usitatissimum seed extract and hydrolyzedalgin to the primary combination was found to work well on dry skin. Theaddition of Psidium guajava fruit extract and Spiraea ulmaria extract tothe primary combination was found so work well on oily skin. Psidiumguajava fruit extract was a hydroglycolic fruit extract. The addition ofPlumeria alba flower extract, Euterpe oleraceae fruit extract, andCamellia sinensis leaf extract to the primary combination was found towork well on normal skin. The Plumeria alba flower extract was anaqueous extract.

In one instance, the formulations described in Tables 11-19 can be usedas vehicles for any of the combinations of the present invention. Suchformulations are generic and can be modified by increasing or decreasingthe amount of the various ingredients, which explains why ranges areprovided. In particular embodiments, the water can by increased ordecreased as needed. Further, although the claims section do notidentity the specific formulations in Tables 11-19, it is intented bythe inventors that such claims may be made. Therefore, Tables 11-19 areincorporated into the summary of the invention section by reference.

In one aspect, there is disclosed a method for treating skin comprisingtopically applying to skin in need thereof a composition that includesan effective amount of Silybum marianum extract and Momordica grosvenorifruit extract, wherein topical application of the composition treats theskin, wherein the Silybum marianum extract can be a hydroalcoholicextract and the Momordica grosvenori fruit extract can be ahydroglycolic extract. An effective amount can be 0.01 to 5% by weightof Silybum marianum extract and 0.01 to 5% by weight of Momordicagrosvenori fruit extract. The composition can have anti-oxidatativeproperties that can reduce oxidative damage to skin cells. Thecomposition can be a cream, lotion, gel, serum, or an emulsion (e.g., anoil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion). The composition canbe alcohol-free or substantially alcohol-free. Examples of alcoholsinclude ethanol, methanol, denatured alcohol, propanol, and otheralcohols know to those of ordinary skill in the art (e.g., compoundshaving —OH groups). In instances where the skin is determined to be dryskin, the composition can further include an effective amount of Linumusitatissimum seed extract and hydrolyzed algin, wherein the Linumusitatissimum seed extract can be a hydroglycolic extract and whereinthe hydrolyzed algin can be obtained from Laminaria digitata or can bean aqueous solution of an oligosaccharide produced by controlledenzymatic depolymerization of membranous polysaccharides from Laminariadigitata. The oligosaccharide can be a chain of 2 uronic acids,mannuronic and guluronic, illustrated by the following structure:

An effective amount can be 0.01 to 5% by weight of Silybum marianumextract, 0.01 to 5% by weight of Momordica grosvenori fruit extract,0.01 to 5% by weight of Linum usitatissimum seed extract, and 0.01 to 5%by weight of hydrolyzed algin. The composition can reduce in skin cellsany one of or all of or any combination of the following: CGRPexpression, Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity;lipoxygenase activity; TNF-α expression; IL-2, 8, and 10 activity;angiogenin expression; INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; and/ortyrosinase activity. In instances wherein the skin is determined to beoily skin, the composition can further include an effective amount ofPsidium guajava fruit extract and Kunzea ericoides leaf extract, whereinthe Psidium guajava fruit extract is a hydroglycolic fruit extract andwherein the Kunzea ericoides leaf extract is an aqueous extract. Aneffective amount can be 0.01 to 5% by weight of Silybum marianumextract, 0.01 to 5% by weight of Momordica grosvenori fruit extract,0.01 to 5% by weight of Psidium guajava fruit extract, and 0.01 to 5% byweight of Kunzea ericoides leaf extract. The composition can reducesebum production in sebaceous glands. In instances wherein the skin isdetermined to be normal skin, the composition can further include aneffective amount of Plumeria alba flower extract and Nymphea giganteaflower extract, wherein the Plumeria alba flower extract is an aqueousextract, and wherein the Nymphea gigantea flower extract is an aqueousextract. An effective amount can be 0.01 to 5% by weight of Silybummarianum extract, 0.01 to 5% by weight of Momordica grosvenori fruitextract, 0.01 to 5% by weight of Plumeria alba flower extract, and 0.01to 5% by weight of Nymphea gigantea flower extract.

Also disclosed is a method for treating skin comprising topicallyapplying to skin in need thereof a composition that includes aneffective amount of Silybum marianum extract and either one of or bothof Momordica grosvenori fruit extract or Pseudopterogorgia elisabethaeextract, wherein topical application of the composition treats the skin,wherein the Silybum marianum extract can be a hydroalcoholic extract,the Momordica grosvenori fruit extract can be a hydroglycolic extract,and the Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae extract. The Pseudopterogorgiaelisabethae extract can be a butylene glycol, caprylic/caprictriglyceride, or pentylene glycol extract that includes pseudopterosins.The composition can include Silybum marianum extract and Momordicagrosvenori fruit extract or Silybum marianum extract andPseudopterogorgia elisabethae extract or Silybum marianum extract,Momordica grosvenori fruit extract, and Pseudopterogorgia elisabethaeextract. The composition can have anti-oxidative properties that canreduce oxidative damage to skin cells. The composition can be a cream,lotion, gel, serum, or emulsion (e.g., an oil-in-water emulsion or awater-in-oil emulsion). The composition can be alcohol-free orsubstantially alcohol-free. Examples of alcohols include ethanol,methanol, denatured alcohol, propanol, and other alcohols know to thoseof ordinary skill in the art (e.g., compounds having —OH groups). Thecomposition can further include Helianthus annuus seed extract. TheHelianthus annuus seed extract can be an aqueous extract, oil extract,or alcohol extract. The composition can reduce in skin cells any one ofor all of or any combination of the following: CGRP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 8, and 10 activity; angiogenin expression; INF-γexpression; IL 12p40 expression; and/or tyrosinase activity. Ininstances where the skin is determined to be dry skin, the compositioncan further include an effective amount of Linum usitatissimum seedextract and hydrolyzed algin, wherein the Linum usitatissimum seedextract can be a hydroglycolic extract and wherein the hydrolyzed algincan be obtained from Laminaria digitata or can be an aqueous solution ofan oligosaccharide produced by controlled enzymatic depolymerization ofmembranous polysaccharides from Laminaria digitata. The oligosaccharidecan be a chain of 2 uronic acids, mannuronic and guluronic, illustratedby the following structure:

In instances where the skin is determined to be oily skin, thecomposition can further include an effective amount of Psidium guajavaextract and either one of or both of Kunzea ericoides leaf extract orSpiraea ulmaria extract, wherein the Psidium guajava fruit extract canbe a hydroglycolic fruit extract and the Kunzea ericoides leaf extractcan be an aqueous extract. The Spirea ulmaria extract can be an aqueousor alcoholic extract. The composition can reduce sebum production insebaceous glands. In instances wherein the skin is determined to benormal skin, the composition can include an effective amount of Plumeriaalba flower extract and either of or all of Nymphea gigantea flowerextract, Euterpe oleraceae fruit extract, and/or Camellia sinensis leafextract, wherein the Plumeria alba flower extract can be an aqueousextract and the Nymphea gigantea flower extract can be an aqueousextract. The Euterpe oleraceae fruit extract can be an aqueous oralcoholic extract, and/or Camellia sinensis leaf extract can be anaqueous or alcoholic extract. An effective amount of each extract can be0.01 to 5% by weight of the composition.

In other aspects there is disclosed multi-purpose compositions that canhave multiple ingredients. The ingredients can include Silybum marianumextract, luo han guo fruit extract, guava fruit extract, gorgonianextract, flax seed extract, hydrolyzed algin, frangipani flower extract,Nymphaea gorgonian extract, and kanuka leaf extract. In particular, thecombination of Silybum marianum extract and luo han guo fruit extractcan be used to provide anti-aging benefits to skin (e.g., treat wrinklesand aged spots), reduce skin irritation and symptoms associated witherythema (e.g., red skin), and reduce or treat itchy skin by removing orreducing the itchy feeling that can lead to scratching skin. Anothercombination found to be effective is Silybum marianum extract, luo hanguo fruit extract, and gorgonian extract. The inventors also discoveredthat the combination of Silybum marianum extract, luo han guo fruitextract, flax seed extract, and hydrolyzed algin had a wide range ofskin efficacy effects. A further combination that also produced positiveskin efficacy results was Silybum marianum extract, luo han guo fruitextract, frangipani flower extract, and Nymphaea gigantea flowerextract. Yet another combination of ingredients found to have a widerange of skin efficacy effects was Silybum marianum extract, luo han guofruit extract, guava fruit extract, and kanuka leaf extract. Additionalcombinations that also proved to be effective in treating skinconditions was flax seed extract combined with hydrolyged algin,frangipani extract combined with water lily extract, and guava fruitextract combined with kanuka extract.

In one embodiment there is disclosed a method for treating or preventinga skin condition comprising topically applying a composition thatincludes an effective amount of Silybum marianum extract and Momordicagrosvenori fruit extract to skin in need thereof, wherein topicalapplication of the composition treats or prevents the skin condition.The Silybum marianum extract can be a hydroalcoholic extract thatincludes silymarin. The Momordica grosvenori fruit extract can be ahydroglycolic extract. The effective amount of any one of the extractsindividually or in combination can be 0.01 to 5% by weight (or more suchas 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50%). The composition can reduce in skincells any one of or all of or any combination of the following: CGRPexpression, Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity;lipoxygenase activity; TNF-α expression, IL-2, 8, and 10 activity;angiogenin expression, INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; and/ortyrosinase activity. The composition can have anti-oxidative propertiesthat can reduce oxidative damage to skin cells. The composition canincrease ICAM-1 expression in skin cells. The composition can be acream, lotion, gel, serum, anhydrous base, oil-in-water emulsion, awater-in-oil emulsion, etc.

The composition can include a combination of Silybum marianum extract,Momordica grosvenori fruit extract, and an extract derived fromPseudopterogorgia elisabethae. The extract derived fromPseudopterogorgia elisabethae can be a butylenes glycol, caprylic/caprictriglyceride, or pentylene glycol extract that includes pseudopterosins.The effective amount of this combination of extract can be individuallyor in combination 0.01 to 5% by weight (or more such as 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,20, 30, 40, 50%). This combination can reduce in skin cells any one ofor all of or any combination of the following: CGRP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 8 and 10 activity; angiogenin expression; INF-γexpression; IL 12p40 expression; and/or tyrosinase activity. Thiscombination can have anti-oxidative properties that can reduce oxidativedamage to skin cells. This combination can also increase ICAM-1expression in skin cells.

The composition can include a combination of Silybum marianum extract,Momordica grosvenori fruit extract, Linum usitatissimum seed extract,and hydrolyzed algin. The Linum usitatissimum seed extract can be is ahydroglycolic extract. The hydrolyzed algin can be obtained fromLaminaria digitata and/or is an aqueous solution of an oligosaccharideproduced by controlled enzymatic depolymerization of membranouspolysaccharides from Laminaria digitata. The oligosaccharide can be achain of 2 uronic acids, mannuronic and guluronic, illustrated by thefollowing structure:

The effective amount of this combination of extract can be individuallyor in combination 0.01 to 5% by weight (or more such as 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,20, 30, 40, 50%). This combination can reduce in skin cells any one ofor all of or any combination of the following: CGRP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 6, 8, and 10 expression; angiogenin expression;INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; tyrosinase activity; MMP2, 3, and9 activity; and/or melanogenesis activity. This combination can haveanti-oxidative properties that can reduce oxidative damage to skincells. This combination can increase laminin expression and ICAM-1expression in skin cells. This combination can be used as an involucrinreporter.

The combination can include a combination of Silybum marianum extract,Momordica grosvenori fruit extract, Plumeria alba extract, and Nympheagigantea flower extract. The Plumeria alba flower extract can be anaqueous extract. The Nymphea gigantea flower extract can be an aqueousextract. The effective amount of this combination of extract can beindividually or in combination 0.01 to 5% by weight (or more such as 6,7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50%). This combination can reduce in skin cellsany one of or all of or any combination of the following: CGRPexpression; Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity;lipoxygenase activity; TNF-α expression; IL-2, 6, 8, and 10 expression;angiogenin expression; INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; tyrosinaseactivity; MMP2, 3, and 9 activity; and/or melanogenesis activity. Thiscombination can have anti-oxidative properties that can reduce oxidativedamage to skin cells. This combination can increase laminin and ICAM-1expression and collagen production in skin cells. This combination canbe used as an involucrin reporter.

The composition can include a combination of Silybum marianum extract,Momordica grosvenori fruit extract, Psidium guajava fruit extract, andKunzea ericoides leaf extract. The Psidium guajava fruit extract can bea hydroglycolic fruit extract. The Kunzea ericoides leaf extract can bean aqueous extract. The effective amount of this combination of extractcan be individually or in combination 0.01 to 5% by weight (or more suchas 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50%). This combination can reduce in skincells any one of or all of or any combination of the following: CGRPexpression; Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity;lipoxygenase activity; TNF-α expression; IL-2, 8, and 10 expression;angiogenin expression; INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; tyrosinaseactivity; and/or elastase activity. This combination can haveanti-oxidative properties that can reduce oxidative damage to skincells. This combination can increase ICAM-1 expression and collagenproduction in skin cells.

Also disclosed is a method of treating or preventing a skin conditioncomprising topically applying a composition that includes an effectiveamount of Linum usitatissimum seed extract and hydrolyzed algin to skinin need thereof, wherein topical application of the composition treatsor prevents the skin condition. The Linum usitatissimum seed extract canbe a hydroglycolic extract. The hydrolyzed algin can be obtained fromLaminaria digitata and/or is an aqueous solution of an oligosaccharideproduced by controlled enzymatic depolymerization of membranouspolysaccharides from Laminaria digitata. The oligosaccharide can be achain of 2 uronic acids, mannuronic and guluronic, illustrated by thefollowing structure:

The effective amount of this combination of extract can be individuallyor in combination 0.01 to 5% by weight (or more such as 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,20, 30, 40, 50%). This combination of extracts can reduce in skin cellsany one of or all of or any combination of the following: MMP 2, 3, and9 activity; CGRP expression; TNF-α expression; IL 6, 8, and 10expression; IL12p40 expression, and/or melanogenesis activity. Thiscombination can increase laminin production in skin cells and/or be usedas an involucrin reporter. The composition can be a cream, lotion, gel,serum, and anhydrous base, an oil-in-water emulsuion or a water-in-oilemulsion.

In another embodiment there is disclosed a method for treating orpreventing a skin condition comprising topically applying a compositionthat includes an effective amount of Plumeria alba flower extract andNymphea gigantea flower extract to skin in need thereof, wherein topicalapplication of the composition treats or prevents the skin condition.The Plumeria alba flower extract can be an aqueous extract. The Nympheagigantea flower extract can be an aqueous extract. The effective amountof this combination of extract can be individually or in combination0.01 to 5% by weight (or more such as 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50%).This combination of extracts can reduce in skin cells TNF-α expression.This combination can have anti-oxidative properties that can reduceoxidative damage to skin cells. This combination can increase collagenproduction in skin cells. The composition can be a cream, lotion, gel,serum, and anhydrous base, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oilemulsion.

In another still embodiment there is disclosed a method for treating orpreventing a skin condition comprising topically applying a compositionthat includes an effective amount of Psidium guajava fruit extract andKunzea ericoides leaf extract to skin in need thereof, wherein topicalapplication of the composition treats or prevents the skin condition.The Psidium guajava fruit extract can be a hydroglycolic fruit extract.The Kunzea ericoides leaf extract can be an aqueous extract. Theeffective amount of this combination of extract can be individually orin combination 0.01 to 5% by weight (or more such as 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20,30, 40, 50%). This combination of extracts can reduce in skin cellsTNF-α expression and/or elastase activity. This combination can haveanti-oxidative properties that can reduce oxidative damage to skincells. This combination can increase collagen production in skin cells.The composition can be a cream, lotion, gel, serum, and anhydrous base,an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

The skin condition that can be treated with any one of the methodsand/or compositions of the present can be: dry skin, flaky skin, itchyskin, chapped skin, pruritus, spider veins, lentigo, age spots, senilepurpura, keratosis, melasma, blotches, nodules, sun damaged skin,dermatitis (including, but not limited to seborrheic dermatitis,nummular dermatitis, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, exfoliativedermatitis, perioral dermatitis, and statis dermatitis), psoriasis,folliculitis, rosacea, acne, impetigo, erysipelas, erythrasma, eczema,sun burns, burned skin, open wounds, and/or skin-inflammatory skinconditions.

In one particular aspect there is disclosed a method of treating orpreventing a fine line or wrinkle comprising topically applying to skinin need thereof any one of the compositions of the present invention,wherein topical application of said composition to a fine line orwrinkle treats said fine line or wrinkle.

In yet another embodiment there is disclosed a method of treating orpreventing erythemic skin or symptoms associated with erythemic skin(e.g., red skin, flushed skin, etc.) comprising topically applying toskin in need thereof any one of the compositions of the presentinvention, wherein topically application of said composition toerythemic skin treats said erythemic skin. Erythema can be caused byskin irritation, an inflammatory response, skin sunburn, electricaltreatments of skin, skin burns, contact allergies, systemic allergies,skin toxicity, exercise, insect bacterial infection, viral infection,fungal infection, protozoa infection, massage, windburn, and otherfactors that can cause reddening or flushing of the skin etc. Thecompositions disclosed above and throughout this specification can beused. The compositions can also be used to reducing pain associated witherythema, sensitive skin, or inflamed skin, comprising topicallyapplying to erythemic, sensitive, or inflamed skin a compositioncomprising jaboticaba fruit pulp and/or cashew fruit pulp or extractsthereof.

Also disclosed is a method of tightening or toning skin comprisingtopically applying to skin in need thereof a composition comprising anyone of the compositions of the present invention, wherein topicalapplication of said composition to skin tightens or tones said skin. Thecompositions disclosed above and throughout this specification can beused.

In even a further embodiment there is disclosed an ingestiblecomposition comprising any one of the extracts or combinations ofextracts disclosed throughout this specification and an ingestibleacceptable vehicle. In certain aspects, the ingestible composition canbe a food-based product, a pill, a gel capsule, a powder, or aneutraceutical product.

An additional embodiment includes an injectable solution comprising anyone of the extracts or combinations of extracts disclosed throughoutthis specification and an ingestible acceptable vehicle and aninjectibly acceptable solution. Injectibly acceptable solution includesa solution that can be safety injected into a human or animal.

One embodiment concerns a method of treating or preventing a diseasecomprising administering to a person in need thereof any one of theextracts or combinations of extracts disposed throughout thisspecification, wherein the disease is treated or prevented. Non-limitingexamples of diseases include AIDS, an autoimmune disease (e.g.,rheumatoid arthritis, multiple sclerose, diabetes—insulin-dependent andnon-independent, systemic lupus erythematosus, or Graves disease), acancer (e.g. malignant, benign, metastatic, or precancer), acardiovascular disease (e.g., heart disease, or coronary artery disease,stroke—ischemic and hemorrhagic, or rheumatic heart disease), diseasesof the nervous system, an infection by a pathogenic microorganism (e.g.,Athlete's foot, Chickenpox, Common cold, Diarrheal diseases, Flu,Genital herpes, Malaria, Meningitis, Pneumonia, Sinusitis, Skindiseases, Strep throat, Tuberculosis, Urinary tract infections, Vaginalinfections, or Viral hepatitis), inflammation (e.g., allergy, orasthma), a prion disease (e.g., CJD, kuru, GSS, or FFI), or obesity.

A further embodiment includes a method of treating or preventing hairloss comprising administering to a patient in need thereof a compositioncomprising any one of the compositions or any one of the extracts orcombinations of extracts disclosed throughout this specification. Thecomposition can be included a pharmaceutically (whether topical, oral,injectible, etc.) or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, whereinadministering to the patient to need thereof prevents or treats hairloss. Preventing or treating hair loss can include stimulating hairgrowth on the scalp, in eyebrows, in eyelashes, or on other regions ofthe body where hair growth is desired. The composition can take the formof an edible pill or gel cap or liquid or powder or foam or spray oraerosolized. The composition can be topically applied, ingested,injected, etc.

The compositions of the present invention can take the form of a pill,gel capsule, spray, foam, topical cream, ointment, gel, or lotion, beaerosolized, or be in powdered form. The compositions can be formulatedas emulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water,oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions,solutions (e.g., aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrous bases(e.g., lipstick or powder), gels, ointments, milks, pastes, aerosols,solid forms, eye jellies, etc. The compositions can also be formulatedfor topical skin application at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7,or more timesa day during use. In other aspects of the prevent invention,compositions can be storage stable or color stable, or both. It is alsocontemplated that the viscosity of the composition can be selected toachieve a desired result, e.g., depending on the type of compositiondesired, the viscosity of such composition can be from about 1 cps towell over 1 million cps or any range or integer derivable therein (e.g.,2 cps, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100,200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000,6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000,80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000, 500000, 600000, 700000,800000, 900000, 1000000 cps, etc., as measured on a BrookfieldViscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25° C.). The compositions ofthe present invention can include any desired amount of jaboticaba orcashew extract or both. The amount of the extracts can individually orcombined by from 0.001, 0.01, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8,0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19,20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37,38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55,56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 6, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74,75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92,93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, or 99%, or more (or any range or integertherein), by weight or volume of the extract or combination of extracts.The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 toabout 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13, or 14. The compositions can include a triglyceride.Non-limiting examples include small, medium, and large chaintriglycerides. In certain aspects, the triglyceride is a medium chaintriglyceride (e.g., caprylic capric triglyceride). The compositions canalso include preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservativesinclude methylparaben, propylparaben, or a mixture of methylparaben andpropylparaben. Compositions of the present invention can have UVA andUVB absorption properties. The compositions can have an sun protectionfactor (SPF) of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30,35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, or more, or any integer or derivative therein.The compositions can be sunscreen lotions, sprays, or creams.

The compositions of the present invention can also include any one of,any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients:water, a chelating agent, a moisturizing agent, a preservative, athickening agent, a silicone containing compound, an essential oil, astructuring agent, a vitamin, a pharmaceutical ingredient, or anantioxidant, or any combination of such ingredients or mixtures of suchingredients. In certain aspects, the composition can include at leasttwo, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, or all of theseadditional ingredients identified in the previous sentence. Non-limitingexamples of these additional ingredients are identified throughout thisspecification and are incorporated into this section by reference. Theamounts of such ingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% by weight orvolume of the composition, or any integer or range in between asdisclosed in other sections of this specification, which areincorporated into this paragraph by reference.

In other aspects, any one of the compositions of the present inventioncan exclude/not have certain ingredients. By way of example, thecompositions can exclude one of, two of, or all of Hypsizygus ulmariusextract, ganoderma lucidum extract or Cordyces sinensis extract. Thecompositions can exclude S-adenosylmethionine. The compositions, incertain aspects, is not applied to a scar or scar tissue. Thecomposition can exclude soybean protean and/or tocopherol or alphatocopherol. The composition can exclude an anti-inflammatory componentand/or an immunity boosting component. The composition can exclude, apeptide or a peptide having the amino acid sequence Gly-Pro-Hyp. Thecomposition can be designed to not stimulate skin pigmentation. Thecomposition can exclude a flavonoid or a flavonoid that is effective atreducing scar tissue or improving the appearance of scare tissue. Thecomposition can exclude a cyanin derived from a plant (e.g., ananthocyanin and/or a betacyanin). The composition can be formulated tonot be a sunscreen composition and to not have an effective SPF value toblock UVA, UVB, and/or UVC radiation. The composition can exclude aloevera gel, sea parsley extract, red clover extract, kava kava extract,bittersweet extract, sea pine extract, edelweiss extract and/orwatercress extract. The composition can exclude an organic sun screenagent with a chromophoric group active within the ultraviolet radiationrange from about 290 nm to about 400 nm. The composition can exclude asilicone fluid or hydrocarbon for retaining moisture within the skin,and/or does not include a C₆ to C₄₀ carboxylic ester. The compositioncan exclude guava leaves or an extract from guava leaves. Thecomposition can exclude green tea, hiokitiol, phytosphingosine and/or asalicylate. The composition can exclude a flax glycerol-glycol-waterbiocomplex and/or a sucrose acetate isobutyrate. The composition canexclude a cationic agent having a cationic strength sufficient to fullyneutralize any negative electrostatic charge on the skin, and/or extractof the seed of plant material selected from the group consisting of theYellow Lotus (Nelumbo lutea), the Blue Lotus (Nelumbo caerulea) and theSacred Lotus (Nelumbo nucifera). The composition can exclude kanuka oiland/or Chia seed (Salvia hispanica) oil.

Also disclosed is a method of lightening skin or evening skin tonecomprising applying the compositions of the present invention to theskin. The method can further comprise identify a person in need oflightening skin or evening skin tone. The methods can further includeinhibiting melanogenesis in a skin cell, inhibiting tyrosinase ortyrosinase synthesis in a skin cell or inhibiting melanin transport tokeratinocytes in a skin cell. The composition can act as an alphamelanin-stimulatory hormone antagonist. The composition can even outpigmentation of the skin. In non-limiting aspect, lightening skin caninclude reducing the appearance of an age spot, a skin discoloration, afreckle, a sun spot, hyper-pigmented skin, etc., by topical applicationof the composition to the age spot, a skin discoloration, a freckle, asun spot, hyper-pigmented skin, etc.

Also disclosed is a method of treating hyperpigmentation comprisingapplying the compositions of the present invention to the skin. Themethod can also comprise identifying a person in need of treatinghyperpigmentation and applying the composition to a portion of the skinexhibiting hyperpigmentation. Additional methods contemplated by theinventors include methods for reducing the appearance of an age spot, askin discoloration, or a freckle, reducing or preventing the appearanceof fine lines or wrinkles in skin, or increasing the firmness of skin byapplying the compositions of the present invention to skin in need ofsuch treatment.

Kits that include the compositions of the present invention are alsocontemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in acontainer. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. Thecontainer can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. Incertain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, orliquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indiciacan be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a foundation, a night cream, a lipstick, acleanser, a toner, a sunscreen, a mask, an anti-aging product, adeodorant, an antiperspirant, a perfume, a cologne, etc.

It is also contemplated that compositions of the present invention canbe includes into food-based products (e.g., beverages, fortified water,energy drinks, nutritional drinks, solid foods, vitamins, supplements,etc.) and pharmaceutical products (e.g., pills, injectible solutions,drugs, etc.). “Supplements” can include vitamins, minerals, herbs orother botanicals, amino acids, enzymes and metabolites. Such supplementsare suitable for oral consumption and can be administered orally.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant or can have pleasant tactileproperties. “Pharmaceutically elegant,” “cosmetically elegant,” and/or“pleasant tactile properties” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients disclosedthroughout the specification. For purposes of consisting essentially ofmeans that inclusion of additional ingredients in the compositions donot materially affect the multi-beneficial properties of theaforementioned combination of ingredients. One such instance would bethe inclusion of an ingredient that has a detrimental effect (e.g.,reducing the efficacy or stability) on any one of the ingredientsidentified in the combination.

“Acne” includes pimples, black heads, white heads, papules, nodules,pustules, inflammatory lesions, or cysts.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of lips or keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition”includes compositions suitable for topical application on lips orkeratinous tissue. Such compositions are typicallydermatologically-acceptable in that they do not have undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, whenapplied to lips or skin. Topical skin care compositions of the presentinvention can have a selected viscosity to avoid significant dripping orpooling after application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, lips, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or “treating” or any variation ofthese terms, when used in the claims and/or the specification includesany measurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desiredresult.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term“comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” butit is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,”and “one or more than one.”

As used in this specification and claim(s), the words “comprising” (andany form of comprising, such as “comprise” and “comprises”), “having”(and any form of having, such as “have” and “has”), “including” (and anyform of including, such as “includes” and “include”) or “containing”(and any form of containing, such as “contains” and “contain”) areinclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecitedelements or method steps.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

Given the number of various products on the market today and the myriadof different skin-types, a person is oftentimes at a loss to identify anappropriate product. Further, many current products include causticagents that can irritate skin, leave the skin feeling dry, or leave theskin feeling oily.

The inventors discovered a solution to counteract these issues. Inparticular, the solution concerns two separate combinations ofingredients obtained from natural sources that have been shown (seeexamples) to work on different skin types ranging from oily skin, dryskin, or normal skin. Further, subcombinations were found to workparticularly well on a given skin type.

These and other non-limiting assets of the present invention aredescribed in further detail below.

A. Determining Skin-Type

A first step it utilizing the compositions of the present invention canbe to determine a user's skin type. It is well known in the cosmetic'sfield that there are three main skin types: (1) normal skin; (2) dryskin; and (3) oily skin. A fourth skin type is simply a combination ofany one of normal, dry, or oil skin (e.g., normal/dry, normal/oil,oily/dry). There are also well-known methods for determining a person'sskin type.

For instance, normal skin can be identified as having a smooth textureand no greasy patches or flaky areas. Therefore, a product that canretain skin moisture in its present form can be used to maintain theappearance of normal skin.

As for dry skin, it has a low level of sebum production from sebaceousglands and is prone to irritation or erythema. The appearance of dryskin has a parched look caused by the skin's inability to retainmoisture. Oftentimes it feels “tight” and uncomfortable after washingand is prone to chapping, flaking, and cracking. Dry skin can beexacerbated by wind, extremes of temperature and air-conditioning, allof which cause the skin to flake, chap and feel sight. Dry skintypically has a dull appearance. Therefore, a product that deliverappropriate hydration and restore moisture to dry skin can be used tocounteract the effects of dry skin.

With respect to oily skin, such skin is shiny, thick and dull colored.It feels oily and has coarse pores and pimples and other unsightlyblemishes due to overpopulation of sebum from sebaceous glands and fromclogged/blocked pores. In this regard, oily skin usually has oilproducing sebaceous glands that are overactive and produce more oil thanis needed. The oil oozes and gives the skin a greasy shine. The poresare enlarged and the skin has a coarse look. Therefore, a product thatcan help control skin surface oiliness while also cleansing cloggedpores can be used to counteract the effects of oily skin.

As noted above, combination skin is a combination of both oily, dry,and/or normal skin (e.g., normal/dry, oily/dry, normal/oily). Foroily/dry skin, there is typically a greasy center panel consisting ofnose, forehead and chin (also known as the “T-zone” of a person's face)and a dry panel consisting of cheeks, mouth and the areas around theeyes. Therefore, a product that can control the excess oil production insebaceous glands in the T-zone while also hydrating the dry skin areasoutside of the T-zone can be used for such oily/dry skin.

Once a particular skin-type is identified, a person can then select anappropriate composition to correct or maintain the skin-type.

Combination of Silybum marianum and Luo Han Guo Fruit Extracts

The inventors discovered that the combination of Silybum marianumextract and Momordica grosvenori fruit extract was found to be effectiveon all skin-types of normal, dry, and oily skin.

Milk thistle (Silybum marianum) is a plant native to Southern Europe andAsia. It is known for producing red to purple flowers, shiny pale greenleaves with white veins, and fruit. The Silybum marianum extract of thepresent invention is a hydroalcoholic (water and alcohol denat) extractthat includes silymarin as an active ingredient (silymarin is a mixtureof flavanonol derivatives that include silibine, silicristine,isosolibine, and isosilicristine). The fruit portion of Silybum marianumincludes silymarin. The Silybum marianum extract can be obtained fromthe fruit portion of this plant by mascerating the fruit pump and thensubjecting the pump to a hydroalcoholic solution of water and SD alcohol39-C (alcohol denat.) to obtain the extract. The extract can thenfiltered and packaged for storage or be added to a composition of thepresent invention. In additional to this extraction process, Silybummarianum extract can be purchased from Provital S.A (SPAIN) under thetrade names PRONALEN SILYMARIN HSC or PRONALEN SILYMARIN SPE.

Luo han guo (Momordica grosvenori) is a perennial vine that grows 3-5meters long with narrow heart shaped leaves and green round fruit 5-7 cmin diameter. This plant is native to southern China. The fruit has beenused as a natural food sweetener in China for several decades. The luohan guo extract of the present invention can be obtained from the fruitportion of this plant by macerating the fruit pulp and then subjectingthe pulp to a hydroglycolic solution of water, glycerin, andpreservatives to the obtain the extract. The extract can then filteredand packaged for storage or be added to a composition of the presentinvention. In addition to this extraction process, luo han guo fruitextract can be purchased from Carrubba Inc., Milford, Conn. (USA).

Data also suggests that the combination of these ingredients in atopical skin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skinconditions by reducing in skin cells the following: CGRP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 8, and 10 activity; angiogenin expression; INF-γexpression; IL 12p40 expression; and tyrosinase activity. Thiscombination also has anti-oxidative properties, which can be used toprevent or at the very least reduce oxidative damage to skin cells. Thiscombination also can increase ICAM-1 expression in skin cells. Example 2provides a more detailed account of these data.

1. Dry Skin

The addition of Linum usitatissimum seed extract and hydrolyzed algin tothe Silybum marianum and luo han guo fruit extracts was found to workwell on dry skin.

Flax seed (Linum usitatissimum (Linseed)) is an annual, biennial orperennial herb that can reach 3 feet in height. It includes a slenderstem, lance-shaped leaves, and can produce ski-blue flowers and oilybrown seeds. This plant is native to Europe and Asia. The flax seedextract of the present invention can be obtained from the seed portionof this plant by macerating the seed and then subjecting the seed to ahydroglycolic solution of water and glycerin to obtain the extract. Theextract can then filtered and packaged for storage or be added to acomposition of the present invention. In addition to this extractionprocess, flax seed extract can be purchased from Carrubba Inc., Milford,Conn. (USA).

Hydrolyzed algin can be obtained from Laminaria digitata, which is abrown alga, that is found in the littoral zone of bodies of water. Thehydrolyzed algin is an aqueous solution of an oligosaccharide that canbe produced by controlled enzymatic depolymerization of membranouspolysaccharides from Laminaria digitata. The structure of theoligosaccharide is a chain 2 uronic acids: mannuronic an guluronic,which can be illustrated as follows:

In addition to this production process, hydrolyzed algin can bepurchased from Barnet Products Corp., Englewood Cliffs, N.J. (USA) underthe trade name of PHYKO AL-PF.

Data also suggests that the combination of these ingredients in atopical skin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skinconditions by reducing in skin cells the following: CGRP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 6, 8, and 10 expression; angiogenin expression;INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; tyrosinase activity; MMP2, 3, and9 activity; and and melanogenesis activity. This combination also hasanti-oxidative properties, which can be used to prevent or at the veryleast reduce oxidative damage to skin cells. This combination also hasthe ability to increase laminin expression and ICAM-1 expression in skincells and can also be used as an involucrin reporter. Example 3 providesa more detailed account of these data.

2. Oily Skin

The addition of Psidium guajava fruit extract and Kunzea ericoides leafextract to Silybum marianum and luo han guo fruit extracts was found towork well on oily skin.

Guava or Psidium guajava is an evergreen tree or shrub that can reach 6to 25 feet in height. It produces green leaves, fragrant white flowers,and fruit. The fruit is pear-shaped and 3 to 6 cm in length. When ripe,the skin of the fruit has a reddish-yellow color. This plant is nativeto the region spanning Mexico to northern South America. The fruitportion of guava is used in the context of the present invention toobtain the extract. The guava fruit extract of the present invention canbe produced by macerating the fruit pulp and then subjecting the pulp toa hydroglycolic solution of water and glycerin to obtain the extract.The extract can then be filtered and packaged for storage. In additionto this extraction process, guava fruit extract of the present inventioncan be purchased from Carrubba Inc., Milford, Conn. (USA).

Kanuka or Kunzea ericoides is a tree that can reach up to 30 meters inheight. The leaves have an oval shape and the flowers are white. Thisplant is native to Australia and New Zealand. The Kunzea ericoides leafextract of the present invention can be obtained from the leaf portionof this plant by macerating the leaf and then subjecting the leaf to anaqueous extraction process. The extract can then be filtered, placed ina butylene glycol solution, and packaged tor storage or be added to acomposition of the present invention. In addition to this extractionprocess, kanuka leaf extract can be purchased from Southern CrossBotanicals, New South Wales (AUSTRALIA) under the trade name ABACROSSKANUKA BG.

Data also suggests that the combination of these ingredients in atopical skin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skinconditions by reducing in skin cells the following: CGKP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 8, and 10 expression; angiogenin expressionINF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; tyrosinase activity; and elastaseactivity. This combination also has anti-oxidative properties, which canbe used to prevent or at the very least reduce oxidative damage to skincells. Further, this combination also has the ability to increase ICAM-1expression and collagen production in skin cells. Example 2 provides amore detailed account of these data.

3. Normal Skin

The addition of Plumeria alba flower extra and Nymphea gigantea flowerextract to Silybum marianum and luo han guo fruit extracts was found towork well on normal skin.

Plumeria alba (Frangipani) is a large evergreen shrub with narrowelongated leaves and large white followers that have a yellow center. Itis native to Central America and the Caribbean. The frangipani flowerextract of the present invention can be obtained from the flower portionof this plant by macerating the flower and then subjecting the flower toan aqueous extraction process. The extract can then be filtered, placedin a butylene glycol solution, and packaged for storage or be added to acomposition of the present invention. In addition to this extractionprocess, frangipani flower extract can be purchased from Southern CrossBotanicals, New South Wales (AUSTRALIA) under the trade name ABACROSSFRANGIPANI FLOWER BG.

Nymphea gigantea (Giant Water Lily) is a tropical plant that is nativeto the tropical and subtropical regions of Australia. This plant canproduce large (up to 25 cm) blue-white flowers that emerge from thewater and large circular leaves that grow up to 75 cm in diameter. TheNymphea gigantea flower extract of the present invention can be obtainedfrom the flower portion of this plant by macerating the flower and thensubjecting the flower to an aqueous extraction process. The extract canthen be filtered, placed in a butylene glycol solution, and packaged forstorage or be added to a composition of the present invention. Inaddition to this extraction process, frangipani flower extract can bepurchased from Southern Cross Botanicals, New South Wales (AUSTRALIA)under the trade name ABACROSS WATER LILY BG.

Data also suggests that the combination of these ingredients in atopical skin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skinconditions by reducing in skin cells the following: CGRP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 6, 8, and 10 expression; angiogenin expression;INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; tyrosinase activity; MMP2, 3, and9 activity; and and melanogenesis activity. This combination also hasanti-oxidative properties, which can be used to prevent or at the veryleast reduce oxidative damage to skin cells. This combination also hasthe ability to increase laminin and ICAM-1 expression and collagenproduction in skin cells and can also be used as an involucrin reporter.Example 2 provides a more detailed account of these data.

C. Combination of Silybum marianum and Gorgonian Extracts

The inventors discovered that the combination of Silybum marianumextract and Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae extract was found to beeffective on all skin-types of normal, dry, and oily skin.

Silybum marianum extract is described above.

Gorgonian extract is a marine extract derived from Pseudopterogorgiaelisabethae (or Sea Whip) plant. Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae can beharvested from the Atlantic Ocean. Gorgonian extract can be prepared bymacerating the Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae plant and then subjectingthe macerated plant with butylenes glycol, or caprylic/caprictriglyceride, or pentylene glycol. One of the active ingredients inGorgonian extract can be pseudopterosins (e.g., pseudopterosin A). Inaddition to this extraction process, Gorgonian extract can be purchasedfrom Lipo Chemicals Inc., Paterson, N.J. (USA) under the trade namesGORGONIAN EXTRACT BG, GORGONIAN EXTRACT GC, or GORGONIAN PTG.

In some instances, this combination can also include Helianthus annus(sunflower) seed extract. The sunflower is a plant that produces brightyellow sunflowers. Seeds are contained within the flower. It is nativeto North and South America. Sunflower seed extract is the extract of thesees of the sunflower, can be purchased from Silab (France) under thetrade names ANTIGLYSKIN™, ASPERILIKE 2™, BIOHAIR™, MX023-COMMUCELL™,GLYCALINE™, HELIOXINE™, MX016 SENSIKIN™, or RETICALMINE™.

1. Dry Skin

The addition of Linum usitatissimum seed extract and hydrolyzed algin tothe Silybum marianum and gorgonian extracts was found to work well ondry skin. Both of these extracts are described above.

2. Oily Skin

The addition of Psidium guajava fruit extract and Spiraea ulmariaextract to the Silybum marianum and gorgonian extracts was found to workwell on oily skin. Psidium guajava fruit extract is described above.

Spiraea ulmaria (Meadow Sweet) is a perennial herb that is nativethroughout most of Europe and Western Asia. Extracts obtained from theleaf can be purchased from Gattefosse (Canada) under the trade nameCYTOBIO ULMAIRE™. Spiraea ulmaria extract obtained from the whole plantcan be purchased from Active Concepts (USA) under the trade name ACBMEADOWSWEET EXTRACT™, ACB MEADOWSWEET EXTRACT 20%™, from Silab (France)under the trade names DERMAPUR™, SEBONORMINE™, and SEBOREGUL™, or fromPhytocos (France) under the trade names COMPLEXE AMINCISSANT LPI™,COMPLEXE AMINCISSANT SGLP™, EXTRAIT d'ULMAIRE LPI™, and EXTRAITd'ULMAIRE SGLP™. Spiraea ulmaria extract obtained from the flower can bepurchased from Indena S.A. (France) under the trade name SWEETSUPEXTRAT™ or from Greentech S.A. (France) under the trade namesPHYTELENE COMPLEX EGX 250™, PHYTELENE OF QUEEN MEADOW EG 213 LIQUID™,and PHYTELENE OF ULMAIRE EG 213 LIQUID™, and SLIMMING™. Spiraea ulmariaextract obtained from the root can purchased from Active Organics (USA)under the trade names ACTIPHYTE OF MEADOWSWEET PG50™, CO ACTIPHYTE OFMEADOWSWEAT AJ™, CO ACTIPHYTE OF MEADOWSWEET AL™, CO ACTIPHYTE OFMEADOWSWEET GL™, CO ACTIPHYTE OF MEADOWSWEET LIPO O™, CO ACTIPHYTE OFMEADOWSWEET LIP RS™, CO ACTIPHYTE OF MEADOWSWEET LIPO S™, and COACTIPHYTE OF MEADOWSWEET LIP SUN™.

3. Normal Skin

The addition of Plumeria alba flower extract, Euterpe oleraceae fruitextract, and Camellia sinensis leaf extract to the Silybum marianum andgorgonian extracts was found to work well on normal skin. Plumeria albaflower extract is described above.

Euterpe oleracea (acai) is a plant that is native to Brazil. It producesdark purpose fruit. Extract from the fruit of acai can be purchased fromSouthern Cross Botanicals Pty Ltd (NSW Australia), Amax NutraSouce (USA)under the trade name ACAI FRUIT EXTRACT™, from Assessa-Industria(Brazil) under the trade name FRULIX TF ACAI™, or from Centroflora GroupBotucatu (Brazil) under the trade name ACAI BERRY EXTRACT™.

Camellia sinensis With respect to Camellia sinensis extract, theCamellia sinensis plant is native to China, and is a flowing plant. Theextract can be obtained front the whole plant or parts of said plant. Inparticular instances, it is from the leaf, root, flower, or seed of saidextract and in particular, the leaf. In particular instances theCamellia sinensis extract can include a polyphenol compound such asepigallocatechin gallate. Camellia sinensis extract, whether from thewhole plant or parts of said plant, is commercially available from awide range of sources (see, e.g., CTFA, Volume 1, pages 400-407, whichis incorporated by reference).

D. Combination of Silybum marianum, Luo Han Guo Fruit, and GorgonianExtracts

Descriptions of Silybum marianum, luo han guo, and gorgonian extractsare described above.

Data suggests that the combination of these ingredients in a topicalskin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skin conditionsby reducing in skin cells the following: CGRP expression;Cyclo-oxygenase 1 and 2 activity; FAAH activity; lipoxygenase activity;TNF-α expression; IL-2, 8, and 10 expression; angiogenin expression;INF-γ expression; IL 12p40 expression; and tyrosinase activity. Thiscombination also has anti-oxidative properties, which can be used toprevent or at the very least reduce oxidative damage to skin cells. Thiscombination also can increase ICAM-1 expression in skin cells. Example 2provides a more detailed account of these data.

E. Combination of Flax Seed and Hydrolyzed Algin Extracts

Descriptions of flax seed and hydrolyzed algin extracts are describedabove.

Data suggests that the combination of these ingredients in a topicalskin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skin conditionsby reducing in skin cells the following: MMP2, 3, and 9 activity; CGRPexpression; TNF-α expression; IL 6, 8, and 10 expression; IL12p40expression, and melanogenesis activity. Further, this combination alsohas the ability to increase laminin production in skin cells and also toact as an involucrin reporter. Example 2 provides a more detailedaccount of these data.

F. Combination of Frangipani Flower and Nymphaea gigantea FlowerExtracts

Descriptions of frangipani flower and water lily extracts are describedabove.

Data suggests that the combination of these ingredients in a topicalskin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skin conditionsby reducing in skin cells TNF-α expression. Further, this combinationalso has anti-oxidative properties and has the ability to increasecollagen production in skin cells. Example 2 provides a more detailedaccount of these data.

G. Combination of Guava Fruit and Kanuka Leaf Extracts

Descriptions of guava fruit and kanuka leaf extracts are describedabove.

Data suggests that the combination of these ingredients in a topicalskin formulation can be used to treat a wide variety of skin conditionsby reducing in skin cells TNF-α expression and reducing elastaseactivity. Further, this combination also has anti-oxidative propertiesand has the ability to increase collagen production in skin cells.Example 2 provides a more detailed account of these data.

H. Determining Skin-Type

The primary skin types of humans are normal skin, dry skin, oily skin,and combination skin. Normal skin typically has an even tone, soft, asmooth texture, with no visible pores or blemishes, and no greasypatches or flaky areas. Therefore, a product that can retain skinmoisture in its present form can be used to maintain the appearance ofnormal skin.

Dry skin usually has a low level of sebum and can be prone toirritation. The appearance of dry skin is usually a parched look causedby the skin's inability to retain moisture. Oftentimes it feels “tight”and uncomfortable after washing and is prone to chapping, flaking, andcracking. Dry skin can be exacerbated by wind, extremes of temperatureand air-conditioning, all of which cause the skin to flake, chap andfeel tight. Dry skin typically has a dull appearance. Therefore, aproduct that deliver appropriate hydration and restore moisture to dryskin can be used to counteract the effects of dry skin.

Oily skin is typically shiny, thick and dull colored. It typically feelsoily and has coarse pores and pimples and other unsightly blemishes.Oily skin usually has oil producing sebaceous glands that are overactiveand produce more oil than is needed. The oil oozes and gives the skin agreasy shine. The pores are enlarged and the skin has a coarse look.Therefore, a product that can help control skin surface oiliness whilealso cleansing clogged pores can be used to counteract the effects ofoily skin.

Combination skin is a combination of both oily and dry skin. Usually,there is a greasy center panel consisting of nose, forehead and chin(also known as the “T-zone” of a person's face) and a dry panelconsisting of cheeks, mouth and the areas around the eyes. Therefore, aproduct that can help control the excess oil production in sebaceousglands in the T-zone while also hydrating the dry skin areas outside ofthe T-zone can be used.

I. Compositions of the Present Invention

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any amount of the ingredients. The compositions can also includeany number of combinations of additional ingredients describedthroughout this specification (e.g., pigments, or additional cosmetic orpharmaceutical ingredients). The concentrations of the any ingredientwithin the compositions can vary, in non-limiting embodiments, forexample, the compositions can comprise, consisting essentially of, orconsist of, in their final form, for example, at least about 0.0001%,0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%,0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%,0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%,0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%,0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%,0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%,0.0059%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0034%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%,0.0058%, 0.0050%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%,0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%,0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%; 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%,0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%,0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%,0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%,0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%,0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%,0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.08250%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%,0.0950%, 0.0075%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%,0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%,0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.0550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%,0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%,0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%,1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%,2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%,3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%,4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%,6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%,7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%,8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%,9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%,21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%,60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or any range derivabletherein, of at least one of the ingredients that are mentionedthroughout the specification and claims, in non-limiting aspects, thepercentage can be calculated by weight or volume of the totalcomposition. A person of ordinary skill in the art would understand thatthe concentrations can vary depending on the addition, substitution,and/or subtraction of ingredients in a given composition.

J. Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated into alltypes of vehicles. Non-limiting examples include emulsions (e.g.,water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-siliconeemulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (both aqueous andhydra-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks and powders), gels,and ointments. Variations and other appropriate vehicles will beapparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use in thepresent invention. In certain aspects, it is important that theconcentrations and combinations of the compounds, ingredients, andagents be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemicallycompatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finishedproduct.

K. Cosmetic Products and Articles of Manufacture

The composition of the present invention can also be used in manycosmetic products including, but not limited to, lip sticks, lip balms,lip glosses, sunscreen products, sunless skin tanning products, hairproducts, finger nail products, moisturizing creams, skin benefit creamsand lotions, softeners, day lotions, gels, ointments, foundations, nightcreams, cleansers, toners, masks, or other known cosmetic products orapplications. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated asleave-on or rinse-off products. In certain aspects, the compositions ofthe present invention are stand-alone products.

L. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the guava fruit extract compositions of the presentinvention can include additional ingredients such as cosmeticingredients and pharmaceutical active ingredients. Non-limiting examplesof these additional ingredients are described in the followingsubsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) described a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural),dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including,e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agentsthat affect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin),water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such asparaaminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g., A,B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g. zinc, calcium and selenium),anti-irritants (e.g. steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories),botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, ginkgobiloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants(e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA andtetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben andpropylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid),absorbents (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch,oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching andlightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate),humectants (e.g., sorbitol, urea, and manitol), exfoliants,waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skinconditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol,ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate).Non-limiting examples of some of these ingredients are provided in thefollowing subsections.

a. UV Absorption Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sullisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethanederivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octyocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloytrioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone,ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonatepolysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis diethylamino hyrdoxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine,4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate.Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc,petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA,sorbitol, surcrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, apricot (prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (betulaalba) bark extract, borage (borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendula officinalisextract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon (elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated caster oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl proprionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, panthetine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol,PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate,PEG-32 stearate, PEG40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate,PEG-150 stearate, pentadecalactone, peppermint (mentha piperita) oil,petrolatum, phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3diisostearate, polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40,polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate,potassium palmitate, propylene glycol, propylene glycoldicaprylate/dicaprate, propylene glycol diotanoate, propylene glycoldipelargonate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate,propylene glycol stearate SE, PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol,retinyl palmitate, rice (oryza sativa), bran oil, RNA, rosemary(rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil, safflower (carthamus tinctorius)oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil, sandalwood (santalum album) oil,serine, serum protein, sesame (sesamum indicum) oil, shea butter(butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodiumhyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodium palmitate, sodium PCA, sodiumpolyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate,sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol,soybean (glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids, squalane, squalene,stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxy dimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate,stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower (helianthus annuus) seedoil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, synthetic beeswax,tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tribehenin,tridecyl neopentaneoate, tridecyl stearate, triethanolamine, tristearin,urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, whet (triticum vulgare) germ oil, andylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, ditridecylthiodipropionate, methylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearylthiodipropionate, ditridecyl thiodipropioniate, dodecyl gallate,erythorbic acid, esters of ascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid,gallic acid esters, hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid,magnesium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanolascorbate, natural botanical anti-oxidants such as green tea or grapeseed extracts, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate,phenylthioglycolic acid, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate,potassium sulfite, propyl gallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodiumascorbate, sodium bisulfite, sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite,sodium sulfite, superoxide dismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbitylfurfural, thiodiglycol, thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid,thioglycolic acid, thiolatic acid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5,tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50,tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate,tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopheryl succinate, andtris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers,esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols,alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acidamides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate,polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21,ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10,polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate,diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate,PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. they can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilyamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cylcomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils including boiling points that vary from about160° to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant front which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

h. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including, thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition.Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosity of acomposition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the activeingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase thestability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene or trihydroxystearin, or a mixture of both.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of thoseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived front a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acids crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,600; 4,489,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acid.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroethyl ethylceullulose,hydroxpropycellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxethycellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxpropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

i. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-I and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methyparabens and propylparabens), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal or combinations thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents, antiseborrheic agents, biologicallyactive proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents, cauterizing agents,depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rash treatment agents,enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growth retardants including DFMOand its salts and analogs, hemostatics, kerotolytics, canker soretreatment agents, cold sore treatment agents, dental and periodontaltreatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skin protectant/barrieragents, steroids including hormones and corticosteroids, sunburntreatment agents, sunscreens, transdermal actives, nasal actives,vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, wound treatment agents, woundhealing agents, etc.

M. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanism. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1 In Vivo Data

The combination of Silybum marianum extract and Momordica grosvenorifruit extract was found through in vivo studies on women (one weekstudy) to be effective on skin-types of normal, dry, and oily (data notshown). The Silybum marianum extract was a hydroalcoholic extract andthe Momordica grosvenori fruit extract was a hydroglycolic extract. Theaddition of the following combinations were found to work particularlywell with certain skin-types (data not shown):

-   -   Dry Skin: The addition of Linum usitatissimum seed extract and        hydrolyzed algin was found to work well on dry skin. the Linum        usitatissimum seed extract was a hydroglycolic extract and the        hydrolyzed algin was obtained from Laminaria digitata.    -   Oily Skin: The addition of Psidium guajava fruit extract and        Kunzea ericoides leaf extract was found to work well on oily        skin. The Psidium guajava fruit extract was a hydroglycolic        fruit extract and the Kunzea ericoides leaf extract was an        aqueous extract.    -   Normal Skin: The addition of Plumeria alba flower extract and        Nymphea gigantea flower extract was found to work well on normal        skin. The Plumeria alba flower extract was an aqueous extract        and wherein the Nymphea gigantea flower extract was an aqueous        extract.

The combination of Silybum marianum extract and Pseudopterogorgiaelisabethae extract was found through in vivo studies on women (one weekstudy) to be effective on skin-types of normal, dry, and oil (data notshown). The Silybum marianum extract was a hydroalcoholic extract andthe Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae extract was a butylene glycol extract.The addition of the following combinations were found to workparticularly well with certain skin-types (data not shown):

-   -   Dry Skin: The addition of Linum usitatissimum seed extract and        hydrolyzed algin was found to work well on dry skin. The Linum        usitatissimum seed extract was a hydroglycolic extract and the        hydrolyzed algin was obtained from Laminaria digitata.    -   Oily Skin: The addition of Psidium guajava fruit extract and        Spiraea ulmaria extract extract was found to work well on oily        skin. Psidium guajava fruit extract was a hydroglycolic fruit        extract.    -   Normal Skin: The addition of Plumeria alba flower extract,        Euterpe oleraceae fruit extract, and Camellia sinensis leaf        extract was found to work well on normal skin. The Plumeria alba        flower extract was an aqueous extract.

Example 2 In Vitro Data

Table 1 includes data concerning the combination of Silybum marianumextract and luo han guo fruit extract.

TABLE 1 Silybum marianum Luo Han Guo Assay Extract* Extract* CGRPExpression   −51% — Cyclo-oxygenase 1 activity inhibition   −65% —Cyclo-oxygenase 2 activity inhibition   −59% — FAAH inbihition   −41% —Lipoxygenase activity   −30% — TNF-α expression   −50% — IL 8 expression−26.47% — IL-2 expression −24.34% — Angiogenin expression −31.54% —ICAM-1 expression  +2.47% — IFN-γ expression −43.59% — IL 10 expression−39.84% — IL 12p40 expression −37.79% — Anti-oxidant activity (ORAC)**  +135% — Anti-oxidant activity (TEAC)**   +87% — Lipid peroxidation(cell-based) DCRS** — Mushroom tyrosinase inhibition   −50% — *PRONALENSILYMARIN HSC from Provital S.A. (SPAIN) was used to obtain data; Luohan guo fruit extract from Carrubba Inc., Milford, Connecticut (USA) wasused to obtain the data. **ORAC activity of positive control; TEACactivity of positive control; DCRS exogenous and endogenous peroxide.

Table 2 includes data concerning the combination of Silybum marianumextract luo han guo fruit extract, and gorgonian extract.

TABLE 2 Silybum Luo Han marianum Guo Gorgonian Assay Extract* Extract*Extract* CGRP Expression   −51% — Cyclo-oxygenase 1 activity inhibition  −65% — Cyclo-oxygenase 2 activity inhibition   −59% — −50% FAAHinbihition   −41% — Lipoxygenase activity   −30% — TNF-α expression  −50% — −81% IL 8 expression −26.47% — IL-2 expression −24.34% —Angiogenin expression −31.54% — ICAM-1 expression  +2.47% — IFN-γexpression −43.59% — IL 10 expression −39.84% — IL 12p40 expression−37.79% — Anti-oxidant activity (ORAC)**   +135% — Anti-oxidant activity(TEAC)**   +87% — +86% Lipid peroxidation (cell-based) DCRS** — Mushroomtyrosinase inhibition   −50% — *PRONALEN SILYMARIN HSC from ProvitalS.A. (SPAIN) was used to obtain data; Luo han guo fruit extract fromCarrubba Inc., Milford, Connecticut (USA) was used to obtain data;Gorgonian Extract BG from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., Paterson, New Jersey(USA) was used to obtain data. **ORAC activity of positive control; TEACactivity of positive control; DCRS exogenous and endogenous peroxide.

Table 3 includes data concerning the combination of Silybum marianumextract, luo han guo fruit extract, flax seed extract, and hydrolyzedalgin extract.

TABLE 3 Silybum Luo Han Flax Hydrolyzed marianum Guo Seed Algin AssayExtract* Extract* Extract* Extract CGRP Expression   −51% — — −66%Cyclo-oxygenase 1 activity   −65% — — — Cyclo-oxygenase 2 activity  −59% — — — FAAH inbihition   −41% — — — Lipoxygenase activity   −30% —— — TNF-α expression   −50% — — −21% IL 6 expression — — −70% IL 8expression −26.47% — — −33% IL-2 expression −24.34% — — — Angiogeninexpression −31.54% — — — ICAM-1 expression  +2.47% — — — IFN-γexpression −43.59% — — — IL 10 expression −39.84% — — −40% IL 12p40expression −37.79% — — −32% Anti-oxidant activity   +135% — — — (ORAC)**Anti-oxidant activity   +87% — — — (TEAC)** Lipid peroxidation (cell-DCRS** — — — based) Mushroom tyrosinase   −50% — — — inhibitionInvolucrin reporter — — ++ — Laminin ELISA — — +168% — MMP2 inhibition ——  −27% — MMP3 inhibition — —  −52% — MMP9 inhibition — —  −15% — B16pigmentation — — — −24.50%   *PRONALEN SILYMARIN HSC from Provital S.A.(SPAIN) was used to obtain data; Luo han guo fruit extract from CarrubbaInc., Milford, Connecticut (USA) was used to obtain data; Flax SeedExtract from Carrubba Inc., Milford, Connecticut (USA) was used toobtain data; PHYKO AL-PF from Barnet Products Corp., Englewood Cliffs,New Jersey (USA) was used to obtain data. **ORAC activity of positivecontrol; TEAC activity of positive control; DCRS exogenous andendogenous peroxide.

Table 4 includes data concerning the combination of Silybum marianumextract, luo han guo fruit extract, frangipani flower extract, andNymphaea gigantea flower extract.

TABLE 4 Silybum Luo Han Frangipani Nymphaea marianum Guo Flower GiganteaAssay Extract* Extract* Extract* Extract CGRP Expression   −51% — — —Cyclo-oxygenase 1 activity   −65% — — — Cyclo-oxygenase 2 activity  −59% — — — FAAH inbihition   −41% — — — Lipoxygenase activity   −30% —— — TNF-α expression   −50% — −89% −60% IL 8 expression −26.47% — — —IL-2 expression −24.34% — — — Angiogenin expression −31.54% — — — ICAM-1expression  +2.47% — — — IFN-γ expression −43.59% — — — IL 10 expression−39.84% — — — IL 12p40 expression −37.79% — — — Anti-oxidant activity  +135% — +30% +38% (ORAC)** Anti-oxidant activity   +87% — — — (TEAC)**Lipid peroxidation (cell- DCRS** — — — based) Mushroom tyrosinase   −50%— — — inhibition Collagen II ELISA — — — +43% *PRONALEN SILYMARIN HSCfrom Provital S.A. (SPAIN) was used to obtain data; Luo han guo fruitextract from Carrubba Inc., Milford, Connecticut (USA) was used toobtain data; ABACROSS FRANGIPANI FLOWER BG from Southern CrossBotanicals, New South Wales (AUSTRALIA) was used to obtain data;ABACROSS WATER LILY BG from Southern Cross Botanicals, New South Wales(AUSTRALIA) was used to obtain data.

Table 5 includes data concerning the combination of Silybum marianumextract, luo han guo fruit extract, guava fruit extract, and kanuka leafextract.

TABLE 5 Silybum Luo Han Guava Kanuka marianum Guo Fruit Leaf AssayExtract* Extract* Extract* Extract* CGRP expression   −51% — — —Cyclo-oxygenase 1 activity   −65% — — — Cyclo-oxygenase 2 activity  −59% — — — FAAH inhibition   −41% — — — Lipoxygenase activity   −30% —— — TNF-α expression   −50% — −89% −63% IL 8 expression −26.47% — — —IL-2 expression −24.34% — — — Angiogenin expression −31.54% — — — ICAM-1expression  +2.47% — — — IFN-γ expression −43.59% — — — IL 10 expression−39.84% — — — IL 12p40 expression −37.79% — — — Anti-oxidant activity(ORAC)**   +135% — +30% — Anti-oxidant activity (TEAC)**   +87% — — +99%Lipid peroxidation (cell-based) DCRS** — — — Mushroom tyrosinaseinhibition   −50% — — — Collagen II ELISA — — — +78% Elastase inhibition— — — −35% *PRONALEN SILYMARIN HSC from Provital S.A. (SPAIN) was usedto obtain data; Luo han guo fruit extract from Carrubba Inc., Milford,Connecticut (USA) was used to obtain data; Guava Fruit Extract fromCarrubba Inc., Milford, Connecticut (USA) was used to obtain data;ABACROSS KANUKA BG from Southern Cross Botanicals, New South Wales(AUSTRALIA) was used to obtain data.

Table 6 includes data concerning the combination of flax seed andhydrolyzed algin extracts.

TABLE 6 Hydrolyzed Algin Assay Flax Seed Extract* Extract* Involucrinreporter ++ — Laminin ELISA +168% — MMP 2 inhibition  −27% — MMP3inhibition  −52% — MMP9 inhibition  −15% — CGRP expression — −66% TNF-αexpression — −21% IL-6 expression — −70% IL-8 expression — −33% IL-10expression — −40% IL12p40 expression — −32% B16 pigmentation — −24.50%  *Flax Seed Extract from Carrubba Inc., Milford, Connecticut (USA) wasused to obtain data; PHYKO AL-PF from Barnet Products Corp., EnglewoodCliffs, New Jersey (USA), was used to obtain data.

Table 7 includes data concerning the combination of frangipani flowerand Nymphaea gigantea flower extracts.

TABLE 7 Frangipani Flower Nymphaea gigantea Assay Extract* FlowerExtract* TNF-α expression −89% −60% Anti-Oxidant Capacity (ORAC)** +30%+38% Collagen I ELISA — +43% *ABACROSS FRANGIPANI FLOWER BG fromSouthern Cross Botanicals, New South Wales (Australia) was used toobtain data; ABACROSS WATER LILY BG from Southern Cross Botanicals, NewSouth Wales (Australia) was used to obtain data. **ORAC activity ofpositive control.

Table 8 includes data concerning the combination of guava fruit extractand kanuka leaf extract.

TABLE 8 Kanuka Leaf Assay Guava Fruit Extract* Extract* TNF-α expression— −63% Anti-Oxidant Capacity (TEAC)** — +99% Collagen I ELISA — +78%Elastase inhibition — −35% *Guava Fruit Extract from Carrubba Inc.,Milford, Connecticut (USA) was used to obtain data; ABACROSS KANUKA BGfrom Southern Cross Botanicals, New South Wales (AUSTRALIA) was used toobtain data.

Example 3 Formulations

The Tables 1-19 compositions are non-limiting compositions that can beused in the context of the present invention.

TABLE 9* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water q.s.Xanthum gum 0.1 M-paraben 0.15 P-paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.01 Phase BCetyl alcohol 4.0 Glyceryl stearate + PEG 100 4.0 Octyl palmitate 4.0Dimethicone 1.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Phase C Extract(s)** 2.0*Sprinkle Xanthum gum in water and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add allingredients in phase A and heat to 70-75° C. Add all items in phase B toseparate beaker and heat to 70-75° C. Mix phases A and B at 70-75° C.Continue mixing and allow composition to cool to 30° C. Subsequently,add phase C ingredient while mixing. **Extracts refers to the extractsand combinations of extracts described in Example 1-8 and throughout thespecification.

TABLE 10* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water q.s.M-paraben 0.2 P-paraben 0.1 Na2 EDTA 0.1 Shea butter 4.5 Petrolatum 4.5Glycerin 4.0 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Finsolve TN 2.0 Phase B Sepigel 3052.0 Phase C Extract(s)** 2.0 *Add ingredients in phase A to beaker andheat to 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, add the phase B ingredientwith phase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing. Subsequently, add phase Cingredient while mixing. **Extracts refers to the extracts andcombinations of extracts described in Examples 1-8 and throughout thespecification.

TABLE 11* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Petrolatum4-6 Glycerin 2-4 Glyceryl Stearate 2-4 PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides2-4 Shea butter 2-4 Cetyl Alcohol 1-2 Stearyl Alcohol 0.5 to 2Extract(s)*** 0.001-5    *Formulation can be prepared by mixing theingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. until homogenous.Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing room temperature(20-25° C.). **70-80% w/w of water works well. ***Extracts refers to theextracts and combinations of extracts described throughout thisspecification can be used. In particular, any of the combinationsdiscussed in Example 1 can be used to create products for all skin orfor dry skin or for oily skin or for normal skin or for combinationskin. Also, the 0.001-5% references the total amount of said extracts orthe amount of each extract individually in the formulation.

TABLE 12* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Sunflowerseed oil  7-10 Glycerin 3-7 Cetearyl ethylhexanoate 3-5 Dicaprylylcarbonate 1-3 Glyceryl isostearate 1-3 Glyceryl stearate 1-3 PEG-80.5-2   Stearic acid 0.5-2   Extract(s)*** 0.001-5    *Formulation canbe prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C.until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled tostanding room temperature (20-25° C.). **70-80% w/w of water works well.***Extracts refers to the extracts and combinations of extractsdescribed throughout this specification can be used. In particular, anyof the combinations discussed in Example 1 can be used to createproducts for all skin or for dry skin or for oily skin or for normalskin or for combination skin. Also, the 0.001-5% references the totalamount of said extracts or the amount of each extract individually inthe formulation.

TABLE 13* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. TEA-LaurylSulfate  7-10 Glycerin 2-5 Propylene glycol 1-3 Cocamidopropyl betaine1-3 Sodium methyl cocoyl laurate 1-3 Dimethicone 0.5-2   Extract(s)***0.001-5    *Formulation can be prepared by mixing the ingredients in abeaker under heat 70-75° C. until homogenous. Subsequently, theformulation can be cooled to standing room temperature (20-25° C.).**70-80% w/w of water works well. ***Extracts refers to the extracts andcombinations of extracts described throughout this specification can beused. In particular, any of the combinations discussed in Example 1 canbe used to create products for all skin or for dry skin or for oily skinor for normal skin or for combination skin. Also, the 0.001-5%references the total amount of said extracts or the amount of eachextract individually in the formulation.

TABLE 14* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Butyleneglycol  5-10 Glycerin 3-7 PEG-32 3-7 Extract(s)*** 0.001-5   *Formulation can be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker underheat 70-75° C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can becooled to standing room temperature (20-25° C.). **75-85% w/w of waterworks well. ***Extracts refers to the extracts and combinations ofextracts described throughout this specification can be used. Inparticular, any of the combinations discussed in Example 1 can be usedto create products for all skin or for dry skin or for oily skin or fornormal skin or for combination skin. Also, the 0.001-5% references thetotal amount of said extracts or the amount of each extract individuallyin the formulation.

TABLE 15* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Butyleneglycol 3-5 Glycerin 3-5 PEG-32 3-5 Extract(s)*** 0.001-5    *Formulationcan be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75°C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled tostanding room temperature (20-25° C.). **80-90% w/w of water works well.***Extracts refers to the extracts and combinations of extractsdescribed throughout this specification can be used. In particular, anyof the combinations discussed in Example 1 can be used to createproducts for all skin or for dry skin or for oily skin or for normalskin or for combination skin. Also, the 0.001-5% references the totalamount of said extracts or the amount of each extract individually inthe formulation.

TABLE 16* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Butyleneglycol 1-3 Glycerin 1-3 Extract(s)*** 0.001-5    *Formulation can beprepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C.until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled tostanding room temperature (20-25° C.). **90-96% w/w of water works well.***Extracts refers to the extracts and combinations of extractsdescribed throughout this specification can be used. In particular, anyof the combinations discussed in Example 1 can be used to createproducts for all skin or for dry skin or for oily skin or for normalskin or for combination skin. Also, the 0.001-5% references the totalamount of said extracts or the amount of each extract individually inthe formulation.

TABLE 17* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Cetearylethylhexanoate  5-10 Glycerin 3-7 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 3-5Butylene glycol 2-5 Sunflower Seed Oil 2-5 Glyceryl Stearate 1-3Isostearyl alcohol 1-3 Petrolatum 1-3 Stearic Acid 0.5-2   Betaine0.5-2   Extract(s)*** 0.001-5    *Formulation can be prepared by mixingthe ingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. until homogenous.Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing room temperature(20-25° C.). **60-70% w/w of water works well. ***Extracts refers to theextracts and combinations of extracts described throughout thisspecification can be used. In particular, any of the combinationsdiscussed in Example 1 can be used to create products for all skin orfor dry skin or for oily skin or for normal skin or for combinationskin. Also, the 0.001-5% references the total amount of said extracts orthe amount of each extract individually in the formulation.

TABLE 18* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Glycerin3-7 Butylene glycol 3-5 Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 3-5 Caprylic/Caprictriglyceride 1-3 Glyceryl Stearate 1-3 Dimethicone 1-3 Betaine 0.5-2  Isostearyl alcohol 0.5-2   Stearic Acid 0.5-2   Extract(s)*** 0.001-5   *Formulation can be prepared by mixing the ingredients in a beaker underheat 70-75° C. until homogenous. Subsequently, the formulation can becooled to standing room temperature (20-25° C.). **70-80% w/w of waterworks well. ***Extracts refers to the extracts and combinations ofextracts described throughout this specification can be used. Inparticular, any of the combinations discussed in Example 1 can be usedto create products for all skin or for dry skin or for oily skin or fornormal skin or for combination skin. Also, the 0.001-5% references thetotal amount of said extracts or the amount of each extract individuallyin the formulation.

TABLE 19* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Water** q.s. Glycerin3-5 Isododecane 3-5 Butylene glycol 3-5 Dimethicone 1-3 Betaine 0.5-2  Extract(s)*** 0.001-5    *Formulation can be prepared by mixing theingredients in a beaker under heat 70-75° C. until homogenous.Subsequently, the formulation can be cooled to standing room temperature(20-25° C.). **75-85% w/w of water works well. ***Extracts refers to theextracts and combinations of extracts described throughout thisspecification can be used. In particular, any of the combinationsdiscussed in Example 1 can be used to create products for all skin orfor dry skin or for oily skin or for normal skin or for combinationskin. Also, the 0.001-5% references the total amount of said extracts orthe amount of each extract individually in the formulation.

Example 4 Assays Used to Obtain Data

B16 Pigmentation Assay: Melanogenesis is the process by whichmelanocytes produce melanin, a naturally produced pigment that impartscolor to skin, hair, and eyes. Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial toprevent skin darkening and lighten dark spots associated with aging.This bioassay utilizes B16-F1 melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mousemelanoma cell line, to analyze the effect of compounds on melanogenesis.The endpoint of this assay is a spectrophotometric measurement ofmelanin production and cellular viability. B16-F1 melanocytes,cultivated in standard DMEM growth medium with 10% fetal bovine serum(Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂, were treated with each of the extractsidentified in Tables 1-8 for 6 days. Following incubation, melaninsecretion was measured by absorbance at 405 nm and cellular viabilitywas quantified.

Collagen Stimulation Assay: Collagen is an extracellular matrix proteincritical for skin structure. Increased synthesis of collagen helpsimprove skin firmness and elasticity. This bioassay analyzes the effectof extracts on the production of procollagen peptide (a precursor tocollagen) by human epidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence ofprocollagen peptide and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto amicroplate. Standards and samples are pipetted into the wells and anyprocollagen peptide present is bound by the immobilized antibody. Afterwashing away any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonalantibody specific for procollagen peptide is added to the wells.Following a wash to remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, asubstrate solution is added to the wells and color develops inproportion to the amount of procollagen peptide bound in the initialstep using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. The colordevelopment is stopped and the intensity of the color is measured.Subconfluent normal human adult epidermal fibroblasts (CascadeBiologies) cultivated in standard DMEM growth medium with 10% fetalbovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂, were treated with each ofthe extracts identified in Tables 1-8 for 3 days. Following incubation,cell culture medium was collected and the amount of procollagen peptidesecretion quantified using a sandwhich enzyme linked immuno-sorbantassay (ELISA) from Takara (#MK101).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay: The prototype ligand of theTNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropic cytokine that plays a centralrole in inflammation. Increase in its expression is associated with anup regulation in pro-inflammatory activity. This bioassay analyzes theeffects of extracts on the production of TNF-α by human epidermalkeratinocytes. The endpoint of this assay is a spectrophotometricmeasurement that reflects the presence of TNF-α and cellular viability.The assay employs the quantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay techniquewhereby a monoclonal antibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coatedonto a microplate. Standards and samples are pipetted into the wells andany TNF-α present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washingaway any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibodyspecific for TNF-α is added to the wells. Following a wash to remove anyunbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution is added to thewells and color develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound inthe initial step using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. Thecolor development is stopped and the intensity of the color is measured.Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (Cascade Biologics)cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (Cascade Biologics) at 37°C. in 5% CO₂, where treated with phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA,10 ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-IMG) and each of the extractsidentified in Tables 1-8 for 6 hours. PMA has been shown to cause adramatic increase in TNF-α secretion which peaks at 6 hours aftertreatment. Following incubation, cell culture medium was collected andthe amount of TNF-α secretion quantified using a sandwhich enzyme linkedimmuno-sorbant assay (ELISA) from R&D Systems (#DTA00C).

Antioxidant (AO) assay: An in vitro bioassay that measures the totalanti-oxidant capacity of an extract. The assay relies on the ability ofantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The antioxidant system of living organisms includesenzymes such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathioneperoxidase; macromolecules such as albumin, ceruloplasmin, and ferritin;and an array of small molecules, including ascorbic acid, α-tocopherol,β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid, and bilirubin. The sum ofendogenous and food-derived antioxidants represents the totalantioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid. Cooperation of all thedifferent antioxidants provides greater protection against attack byreactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, than any single compound alone.Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity may give more relevant biologicalinformation compared to that obtained by the measurement of individualcomponents, as it considers the cumulative effect of all antioxidantspresent in plasma and body fluids. The capacity of the antioxidants inthe sample to prevent ABTS oxidation is compared with that of Trolox, awater-soluble tocopherol analogue, and is quantified as molar Troloxequivalents. Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (AnnArbor, Mich. USA) was used as an in vitro bioassay to measure the totalanti-oxidant capacity of each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-8.The protocol was followed according to manufacturer recommendations. Theassay relied on antioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation ofABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation was compared with that Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherolanalogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.

ORAC Assay: Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) ofthe aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also beassayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients orcompositions. This assay can quantify the degree and length of time ittakes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygenradicals that are known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). TheORAC value of the aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions canbe determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art(see U.S. Publication Nos. 2004/0109903 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al.(1993)), all of which are incorporated by reference). In summary, theassay described in Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidantcompounds in test materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm(B-PE) fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator,AAPH. The extracts identified in Tables 1-8 were subjected to thisassay.

Mushroom tyrosinase activity assay: In mammalian cells, tyrosinasecatalyzes two steps in the multi-step biosynthesis of melanin pigmentsfrom tyrosine (and from the polymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase islocalized in melanocytes and produces melanin (aromatic quinonecompounds) that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes. Purified mushroomtyrosinase (Sigma) was incubated with its substrate L-Dopa (Fisher) inthe presence or absence of each of the extracts in Tables 1-8. Pigmentformation was evaluated by colorimetric plate reading at 490 nm. Thepercent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity was calculatedcompared to non-treated controls to determine the ability of testextracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme. Test extractinhibition was compared with that of kojic acid (Sigma).

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay: An in vitromatrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs are extracellularproteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtueof their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substrates include collagens,fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substrates include collagen VII,fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric Drug Discovery kits fromBioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9 (AK-410), this assay isdesigned to measure protease activity of MMPs using a thiopeptide as achromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OCH2HS)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M−1 cm−1 at pH 6.0 and above 7). Theextracts identified in Tables 1-8 were subjected to this assay.

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay: An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1,-2) inhibition assay. COX is a bifunctional enzyme exhibiting bothcyclooxygenase and peroxidase activities. The cyclooxygenase activityconverts arachidonic acid to a hydroperoxy endoperoxide (ProstaglandinG2; PGG2) and the peroxidase component reduces the endoperoxide(Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to the corresponding alcohol, the precursor ofprostaglandins, thromboxanes, and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitorscreening assay measures the peroxidase component of cycloxygenases. Theperoxidase activity is assayed colorimetrically by monitoring theappearance of oxidized N,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD).This inhibitor screening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes inorder to screen isozyme-specific inhibitors. The Colormetric COX (ovine)Inhibitor screening assay (#760111, Cayman Chemical), was used toanalyze the effects of each of the extracts identified in Tables 1-8 onthe activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme (COX-1 or COX-2).According to manufacturer instructions, purified enzymes, heme and testextracts were mixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 15min at room temperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid andcolorimetric substrate were added to initiate the reaction. Colorprogression was evaluated by colorimetric plate reading at 590 nm. Thepercent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity was calculated compared tonon-treated controls to determine the ability of test extracts toinhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay: An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay.LOs are non-heme iron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the additionof molecular oxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are themain substrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may thenbe converted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, thatare subsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatorymediators. This assay provides an accurate and convenient method forscreening lipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxidesgenerated front the incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO)with arachidonic acid. The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit(#760700, Cayman Chemical) was used to determine the ability of each ofthe extracts identified in Tables 1-8 to inhibit enzyme activity.Purified 15-lipoxygenase and test extracts were mixed in assay bufferand incubated with shaking for 10 min at room temperature. Followingincubation, arachidonic acid was added to initiate the reaction andmixtures incubated for an additional 10 min at room temperature.Colorimetric substrate was added to terminate catalysis and colorprogression was evaluated by fluorescence plate reading at 490 nm. Thepercent inhibition of lipoxyganse activity was calculated compared tonon-treated controls to determine the ability of test extracts toinhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Elastase Assay: EnzChek® Elastase Assay (Kit #E-12056) from MolecularProbes (Eugene, Oreg. USA) was used as an in vitro enzyme inhibitionassay for measuring inhibition of elastase activity for each of theextracts identified in Tables 1-8. The EnzChek kit contains solublebovine neck ligament elastin that has been labeled with dye such thatthe conjugate's fluorescence is quenched. The non-fluorescent substratecan be digested by elastase or other proteases to yield highlyfluorescent fragments. The resulting increase in fluorescence can bemonitored with a fluorescence microplate reader. Digestion products fromthe elastin substrate have absorption maxima at ˜505 nm and fluorescenceemission maxima at −515 nm. The peptide, chloromethyl ketone, is used asa selective, collective inhibitor of elastase when utilizing the EnzChekElastase Assay Kit for screening for elastase inhibitors.

Example 5 Additional Assays

Additional assays that can be used to determine the efficacy of any oneof the compositions disclosed throughout the specification and claimscan be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in theart. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used in thecontext of the present invention. It should be recognized that othertesting procedures can be used, including, for example, objective andsubjective procedures.

Oil Control Assay: An assay to measure reduction of sebum secretion fromsebaceous glands and/or reduction of sebum production from sebaceousglands can be assayed by using standard techniques known to those havingordinary skill in the art. In one instance, the forehead can be used. Acomposition of the present invention can be applied to one portion ofthe forehead once or twice daily for a set period of days (e.g., 1, 2,3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, or more days), while anotherportion of the forehead is not treated with the composition. After theset period of days expires, then sebum secretion can be assayed byapplication of fine blotting paper to the treated and untreated foreheadskin. Thus is done by first removing any sebum from the treated anduntreated areas with moist and dry cloths. Blotting paper can then beapplied to the treated and untreated areas of the forehead, and anelastic band can be placed around the forehead to gently press theblotting paper onto the skin. After 2 hours the blotting papers can beremoved, allowed to dry and then transilluminated. Darker blotting papercorrelates with more sebum secretion (or lighter blotting papercorrelates with reduced sebum secretion.

Erythema Assay: An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced byapplying a 0.2% solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of thesubject. The area is protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After24 hrs, the patch is removed and the irritation-induced redness can beassessed using the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* valuemeasures changes in skin color in the red region. Immediately afterreading, the area is heated with a composition of the present invention.Repeat measurements are taken at regular intervals to determine theformula's ability to reduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay: Skin moisture/hydration benefits can bemeasured by using impedance measurements with the Nova Dermal PhaseMeter. The impedance meter measures changes in skin moisture content.The outer layer of the skin has distinct electrical properties. Whenskin is dry it conducts electricity very poorly. As it becomes morehydrated increasing conductivity results. Consequently, changes in skinimpedance (related to conductivity) can be used to assess changes inskin hydration. The unit can be calibrated according to instrumentinstructions for each testing day. A isolation of temperature andrelative humidity can also be made. Subjects can be evaluated as followsprior to measurement they can equilibrate in a room with definedhumidity (e.g., 30-50%) and temperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Threeseparate impedance readings can be taken on each side of the face,recorded, and averaged. The T5 setting can be used on the impedancemeter which averages the impedance values of every five secondsapplication to the face. Changes can be reported with statisticalvariance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay: Skin clarityand the reduction in freckles and age spots can be evaluated using aMinolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can be assessed to determineirritation potential due to product treatment using the a* values of theMinolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes in skin color in thered region. This is used to determine whether a composition is inducingirritation. The measurements can be made on each side of the face andaveraged, as left and right facial values. Skin clarity can also bemeasured using the Minolta Meter. The measurement is a combination ofthe a*, b, and L values of the Minolta Meter and is related to skinbrightness, and correlates well with skin smoothness and hydration. Skinreading as taken as above. In one non-limiting aspect, skin clarity canbe described as L/C where C is chroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay: Clinical grading of skin tone canbe performed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10) even skin ofuniform, pinkish brown color. No dark, erythremic, or scaly patches uponexamination with a hand held magnifying lens. Microtexture of the skinvery uniform upon touch; (7) even skin tone observed withoutmagnification. No scaly areas, but slight discolorations either due topigmentation or erythema. No discolorations more than 1 cm in diameter;(4) both skin discoloration and uneven texture easily noticeable. Slightscaliness. Skin rough to the touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skincoloration and texture. Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration,either hypopigmented, erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of unevencolor more than 1 cm in diameter. Evaluations were made independently bytwo clinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay: Clinical grading of skinsmoothness can be analyzed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10)smooth, skin is moist and glistening, no resistance upon dragging fingeracross surface; (7) somewhat smooth, slight resistance; (4) rough,visibly altered, friction upon rubbing; and (1) rough, flaky, unevensurface. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Skin smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Discussed inPackman et al. (1978): Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also beassessed visually by using the methods disclosed in Packman et al.(1978). For example, at each subject visit, the depth, shallowness andthe total number of superficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject canbe carefully scored and recorded. A numerical score was obtained bymultiplying a number factor times a depth/width/length factor. Scoresare obtained for the eye area and mouth area (left and right sides) andadded together as the total wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer: Skin firmness can bemeasured using a Hargens ballistometer, a device that evaluates theelasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping a small body onto theskin and recording its first two rebound peaks. The ballistrometry is asmall lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip (4 square mm-contactarea) was used. The probe penetrates slightly into the skin and resultsin measurements that are dependent upon the properties of the outerlayers of the skin, including the stratum corneum and outer epidermisand some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas: The appearance oflines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated using replicas, which isthe impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubber like material canbe used. The replica can be analyzed by mage analysts. Changes in thevisibility of lines and wrinkles can be objectively quantified via thetaking of silicon replicas form the subjects' face and analyzing thereplicas image using a computer image analysis system. Replicas can betaken from the eye area and the neck area, and photographed with adigital camera using a low angle incidence lighting. The digital imagescan be analyzed with an image processing program and the are of thereplicas covered by wrinkles or fine lines was determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method: Thesurface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is arithmetic mean ofall roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profile heightrelative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximum verticaldistance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rz which is themean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values are given as acalibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardized prior to eachuse by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Value can be computedby the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness; l_(m)=thetraverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of the location of theprofile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay: In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of thecompositions of the present invention can be evaluated by using a skinanalog, such as, for example, MELANODERM™, Melanocytes, one of the cellsin the skin analog, stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™,can be treated with a variety of bases containing the compositions andwhitening agents of the present invention or with the base alone as acontrol. Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can beused as a control.

* * *

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope, of the invention.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method for applying a composition toskin, the method comprising topically applying to skin a compositionthat includes an effective amount of Silybum marianum extract, Momordicagrosvenori fruit extract, Psidium guajava fruit extract, and Kunzeaericoides leaf extract, wherein the Momordica grosvenori fruit extractis a hydroglycolic extract, the Silybum marianum extract is ahydroalcoholic extract, the Psidium guajava fruit extract is ahydroglycolic fruit extract, and the Kunzea ericoides leaf extract is anaqueous or alcoholic extract.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the skinis oily skin.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition includes0.0001 to 5% by weight of Silybum marianum extract, 0.0001 to 5% byweight of Momordica grosvenori fruit extract, 0.0001 to 5% by weight ofPsidium guajava fruit extract, and 0.0001 to 5% by weight of Kunzeaericoides leaf extract.
 4. The method claim 1, wherein the compositionhas anti-oxidative properties that can reduce oxidative damage to skincells.
 5. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is a cream,lotion, gel, or serum.
 6. The method of claim 1, wherein the compositionis an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.
 7. The method ofclaim 1, wherein the composition does not include an alcohol.
 8. Themethod claim 1, wherein the composition increases collagen production inskin cells.
 9. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition reducessebum production in sebaceous glands.
 10. The method of claim 1, whereinthe composition reduces the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles. 11.The method of claim 1, wherein the composition reduces skin irritationor erythema.